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Friday, March 4, 2011

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The identity of the Italian kitchen

is approaching the anniversary of 150 years of the Unification of Italy.
nothing better than to rely on the master's words
Massimo Montanari in his "The identity of the Italian kitchen,"
published by Laterza, is an excursus on
food habits of our country and Europe starting from
medieval period. In Europe, several populations
clashed forming new eating patterns.
medieval Italy was made up of both rural communities and from communities
towns. The cities were connected by a network. The exchange
and marketing of products permitted
cultural communication. Bologna said the fat, this was because having a positive connotation
universities, students and professors
was a bustling city that had its own identity
cuisine. We can study the culinary identity
thanks to recipes that start from the fourteenth century
become important evidence such as the Liber de Coquina
text was drafted in the Angevin court of Naples, and another array of
Tuscany.
In these recipes you begin to delineate the role of pasta
and its various sizes located in different regions of Italy.
cake and pasta are already a genre.
There is an interplay between popular culture and elite culture.
Even the vegetables for the farmers begin to be part of the menu
aristocrats.
Montanari continues with historical examples
important to reiterate a concept that "food is not
identity inscribed in the genes of a people but are created historically
through communication and exchange between men."
An important step is "the search of their roots
always ends up being the discovery of that is in us."
Montanari also speaks of Artusi that somehow
in 1891 tried to unify Italy in terms of culinary
work with a "science of cooking and the art of eating well"
where in fact proposed as a national cuisine and regional dishes
light cuisine and reassuring for
bourgeoisie.
So until the present day there have been many attempts to find a unitary model
and encoded rules. In fact
Montanari says "this model does not exist" but if
we all know that a regional recipes
exchange of knowledge and information, and customs
makes the depositary of a beautiful country style
already known since the Middle Ages.
All that is shared by the people becomes Italian
even tomatoes and peppers that come from
Americas.
In practice, the richness of Italian cuisine in
is in the diversity, and knowledge of this
variety of flavors that by sharing information and knowledge makes us all
Italians, especially in the kitchen!